When Taylor Swift’s engagement ring made headlines, it sparked renewed fascination with antique diamond cuts. Unlike the sleek precision of modern brilliant diamonds, antique cuts carry an old-world charm that feels rare and deeply romantic.
Among these vintage styles, the Old European Cut is one of the most iconic—but also one of the least understood. Many people wonder: What exactly is an Old European Cut diamond? How is it different from modern cuts? Why does it look so unique? This article will guide you through the history, features, and enduring appeal of the Old European Cut diamond.
What Is an Old European Cut Diamond?
The Old European Cut diamond is one of the most celebrated antique diamond styles, treasured for its romantic sparkle and vintage charm. Most examples were cut between 1890 and 1930, making them the dominant round diamond style of the late Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras.
Like the modern round brilliant, Old European Cuts typically feature 58 facets, but their proportions are distinct: a small table, a high crown, a deep pavilion, and a large open culet. Each was hand-cut by master artisans, often under candlelight, which gives these diamonds subtle irregularities and a softer, more colorful fire compared to the razor-sharp brilliance of modern machine-cut stones.
As the direct predecessor of the round brilliant, the Old European Cut bridges history and craftsmanship, embodying both tradition and individuality.
The History Behind the Old European Cut
The Old European Cut emerged in the late 19th century, as diamond cutting transitioned from the squarish Old Mine Cut toward a more circular outline. Between 1890 and 1930, advances in cutting technology such as the treadle-powered lathe allowed cutters to create rounder shapes with more refined symmetry.
These diamonds were designed to sparkle under candlelight or gas lamps, which is why their facets emphasize deep fire and a romantic glow rather than the intense brilliance of modern stones.
By the 1930s, with the invention of the bruting machine and Marcel Tolkowsky’s mathematical formulas for ideal brilliance, the modern round brilliant began to replace the Old European Cut.
Old European Cut vs. Old Mine Cut
The Old Mine Cut and the Old European Cut are two of the most iconic antique diamond styles, but they differ in shape, era, and overall look. The Old Mine Cut was popular during the 18th and early 19th centuries and is usually more cushion-shaped with a squarish outline and rounded corners. The Old European Cut, which appeared later between 1890–1930, refined the design into a rounder shape with more consistent proportions.
One of the easiest ways to tell them apart is by looking from above: the Old Mine Cut often appears squarish or cushion-like, while the Old European Cut looks rounder and shows a distinctive open culet—a small flat facet at the bottom that can appear as a tiny circle or “hole.”
It’s important to note that both cuts have open culets, but their appearance is different. In Old Mine Cuts, the culet can look elongated, oval, or irregular because of the less precise hand-cutting methods of the time. In Old European Cuts, the culet is typically smaller and rounder, reflecting the improved cutting tools and symmetry of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Old European Cut vs. Modern Cuts
Although both share a round outline, the difference between the Old European Cut and the modern round brilliant comes down to proportions and visual character.
Modern rounds are designed for maximum brilliance, with precise symmetry, larger tables, and no visible culet - the bottom comes to a sharp point, so when you look through the top, you won’t see any “hole.”
Old European Cuts, by contrast, were hand-cut with chunkier facets and a distinctive open culet, which often appears as a tiny circle at the center when viewed from above.
Their symmetry is less exact, and the light return emphasises colourful dispersion or “fire” rather than pure white brilliance. The result is a softer, romantic sparkle that many vintage lovers cherish, even though others prefer the sharper brilliance of modern cuts.
| Feature | Old Mine Cut | Old European Cut | Modern Round Brilliant Cut |
| Era | 1700s-1800s | 1890-1930 | 20th century-present |
| Shape | Cushion-like, squarish outline with rounded corners | Round outline, slightly less precise | Perfectly round, machine-cut precision |
| Facets | Chunky facets,less symmetry | 58 facets, more balanced but hand-cut | 57-58 facets, mathematically optimized proportions |
| Culet (bottom tip) | Open culet, often elongated or irregular | Open culet, usually small and round | No visible culet, comes to a sharp point |
| Table & Crown | Small table, high crown,deep pavilion | Small table, high crown,deep pavilion | Larger table, shallower crown and pavilion |
| Sparkle | Soft glow under candlelight, less brilliance | Stronger fire, romantic sparkle | Maximum brilliance and scintillation |
| Overall Look | Rustic,old-world charm | Vintage elegance, precursor to modern brilliant | Bright,sharp, and highly symmetrical |
How to Identify an Old European Cut Diamond
Spotting an Old European Cut diamond doesn’t require expert knowledge - there are a few simple signs you can notice with the naked eye.
The most distinctive is the open culet: instead of coming to a perfect point at the bottom, the stone has a flat tip, which creates the appearance of a small circle or “hole” in the center when viewed from above. This feature is never found in modern round brilliants, making it the easiest way to tell the two apart.
In addition, Old European Cuts often have a slightly round-but-not-perfect outline, a smaller flat top, and chunkier facets that give off a warm, romantic sparkle. Together, these traits make OECs instantly recognizable once you know what to look for.
Why Are Old European Cut Diamonds So Special?
Part of the magic of Old European Cut diamonds is their individuality. No two are exactly alike, since each was shaped by hand before the era of laser precision. Their vintage aesthetic, combined with their rarity, makes them especially sought after in antique jewelry.
Collectors value their history, while couples often choose them for engagement rings as a way to stand out from modern mass-produced styles. Some jewelers even offer lab-grown Old European Cut diamonds, blending vintage design with sustainable innovation.
At Elora, we take this one step further. With our own diamond-cutting workshop, we can cut lab-grown Old European Cut diamonds to your exact specifications - bringing the timeless charm of this antique style into a modern, personalized creation.
Whether you’re looking for a classic solitaire or a bespoke engagement ring, Elora makes it possible to capture the romance of history while enjoying the quality and sustainability of today. Click here to contact us and create the special diamond shape you desire.
Old European Cut Diamonds in Modern Jewelry
Despite being a century old in origin, Old European Cuts are enjoying a revival in modern jewelry. Designers frequently set them in Art Deco or Edwardian-inspired mounts, but they also look striking in minimalist solitaire settings, where the diamond’s character takes center stage.
Increasingly, consumers are requesting lab-grown Old European Cut diamonds, which combine the vintage look with affordability and ethical sourcing. This makes the OEC not just a relic of the past, but a style with enduring relevance.
Caring for Your Old European Cut Diamond
Because many Old European Cuts are true antiques, they require thoughtful care. Their open culets and delicate girdles can be more vulnerable to chips, so protective settings are often recommended.
Cleaning should be done gently with mild soap, warm water, and a soft brush. Avoid harsh chemicals and always store your diamond separately to prevent scratches. Regular check-ups with a jeweler will ensure that the stone remains secure in its setting for generations to come.
Where to Buy an Old European Cut Diamond
Authentic Old European Cut diamonds are often sourced through antique jewelers, estate sales, and specialized vintage retailers. Today, online platforms also offer curated selections, including lab-grown OECs for buyers who love the vintage look without the antique price tag.
At Elora, we make this journey even simpler. Our collection includes a wide range of finished Old European Cut diamond rings, ready to wear and designed with timeless elegance.
For those seeking something more personal, we also offer custom design services - from cutting the diamond itself in the Old European style to creating a bespoke setting that reflects your vision.
Whether you dream of a classic solitaire or a unique vintage-inspired design, Elora can bring your idea to life with exceptional craftsmanship and sustainable lab-grown diamonds.
Conclusion
The Old European Cut diamond is more than just an antique style - it is a testament to the artistry of hand-cut diamonds and the romance of a bygone era. Its unique sparkle, historical significance, and individuality make it an extraordinary choice for anyone seeking a diamond that tells a story.
Whether inherited, sourced from an estate, or created in a lab-grown version, the Old European Cut offers timeless beauty that continues to inspire jewelry lovers around the world.